PRACTICAL PLANNING GUIDE
Choosing scroll saw blades: size, teeth and stock
By GrainBench · Updated October 23, 2026
Choose a blade around three things: your saw, your stock and the tightest turn in the pattern.
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Check the fit first
Confirm the blade length and whether your clamps accept plain-end or pin-end blades. Plain-end blades can pass through smaller entry holes. Size numbers alone are not a complete specification: compare the maker’s width, tooth pitch and material range.
Three useful starting points
| Style | Why consider it | Check first |
|---|---|---|
| Skip tooth | Space between teeth helps clear sawdust; a useful learning option. | Maker’s stock-thickness range and curve capability. |
| Reverse tooth | Upward-facing lower teeth can reduce underside splintering. | Correct installation height and the maker’s directions. |
| Spiral | Cuts in different directions without rotating the stock. | Wider cut and different control; not our default for a first outline. |
Try it on matching scrap
For our suggested 6 mm plywood practice stock, use the blade maker’s chart to choose a blade rated for that thickness and your curves. Olson lists size 3 double-tooth blades for intricate work and size 5 double-tooth blades for tight-radius work; those examples are starting comparisons, not a guarantee of fit for every plywood or saw.
- Cut the tightest curve on matching scrap.
- Look for burning, excessive deflection, splintering and a cut that wanders.
- Check tension, feed and blade condition before assuming a different size is the answer.
- Record the blade model and stock thickness when you find a good combination.
Review the first-cut workflow →